ENG

CHARLES JAMES: THE COUTURE SECRETS OF SHAPE

「Charles James: The Couture Secrtes Of Shape 」  book launch

Book preface BY RICK OWENS

WHEN I STARTED MY LABEL IN THE MID-NINETIES, MY ULTIMATE GOAL WAS TO BE CHARLES JAMES. COMPLETE DEVOTION TO CRAFT, SCORN FOR CONVENTIONAL PROSAIC COMFORTS, BUT ATTENTION AND RESPECT RESERVED EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE MEGA-REFINED AND EXTRAVAGANT — THAT’S WHERE I WANTED TO GO … I WAS A BIT FULL OF MYSELF …

HIS LIFE, WHICH I SAW THROUGH MY GRUNGY HOLLYWOOD FILTER, ENCOMPASSED A VERY BREATHY SPECTRUM OF HIGH QUEENS … WAUGH, BEATON, WARHOL, DIETRICH, DALÍ … A WORLD OF GLAMOUR THAT CONTRASTED ROMANTICALLY WITH HIS SELF-IMPOSED DEPRIVATIONS THAT SNEERED AT CONVENTIONAL STATUS, KNOWING THAT THE ULTIMATE STATUS WAS A SUPERNATURAL EXISTENCE AS AN ARTIST SPELLED WITH A CAPITAL A.

A FRIEND FROM MY L. A. YEARS, JUAN FERNANDEZ, USED TO DO FITTINGS FOR JAMES IN NY IN THE SEVENTIES, SPENDING HIS TEENAGE NIGHTS BEING PINNED INTO ELABORATE BALL GOWNS WHILE ANTONIO LOPEZ SKETCHED THE WHOLE PROCEDURE … JUAN RAPTUROUSLY DESCRIBED TO ME THE MAGIC OF LISTENING TO JAMES CONTINUOUSLY TALK ABOUT THE COLOR PINK FOR TWO HOURS, NEVER REPEATING THE SAME WORD …

I’VE PERSONALLY ALWAYS TRIED TO PROMOTE CLOTHES THAT ARE FLUID, RESPECTFUL OF THE BODY AND GENTLE … JAMES’ CLOTHES WERE THE OPPOSITE … THEY WERE ENGINEERED, SCAFFOLDED, CONSTRICTING, AND HARD … BUT IN HIS CASE, THE OPERATIC FORMALITY AND STRICT EXQUISITENESS MADE COMFORT IRRELEVANT. FOR MY F/W 11 COLLECTION CALLED LIMO, I BLATANTLY, GLEEFULLY, RIPPED OFF HIS ICONIC EIDERDOWN JACKET. I DON’T REALLY REMEMBER ANYONE CALLING ME OUT ON IT, BUT I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST OBVIOUS.

FASHION IS ABOUT COMMUNICATION. AND, YES, EIGHTY PERCENT OF THE TIME, THE MESSAGE IS ABOUT PROJECTING MATERIAL OR INTELLECTUAL STATUS, BUT FASHION CAN ALSO BE A MORAL CONTRIBUTION … MURMURING A SET OF VALUES AND STANDARDS THAT MAKE US CONSIDER BEHAVING IN A MORE GRACEFUL AND NOBLE WAY.

JAMES’ CLOTHES WERE ABOUT ORDER, RIGOR, AND DISCIPLINE … IDEAS THAT SUGGESTED AN ELEVATED CODE I ADMIRED AND WANTED TO ALIGN MYSELF WITH. THESE CLOTHES COULD PERVERSELY SPEAK ABOUT RESTRAINT AND THE JOY OF SUMPTUOUSNESS AT THE SAME TIME.

BEAUTY IS ONE OF THOSE UNFAIR EPHEMERAL VARIABLES THAT CAN COME OUT OF NOWHERE AND SOMETIMES BE CRUEL … THAT’S PART OF THE THRILL … BUT CONTRIBUTING A BODY OF WORK THIS COMMITTED AND PURE IS AN EXAMPLE OF HONESTY AND HOPE THAT THE REST OF US CAN HOLD ONTO AND SHARE WITH EACH OTHER AND GENERATIONS OF LOVERS OF BEAUTY TO FOLLOW.

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-060-e1551955661716

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-060-e1551955661716

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-059-e1551955699617

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-059-e1551955699617

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-058-e1551955623231

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-058-e1551955623231

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-057-e1551875510630

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-057-e1551875510630

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-052-e1551955731475

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-052-e1551955731475

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-051-e1551956401937

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-051-e1551956401937

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-019-e1551956473951

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-019-e1551956473951

您可能感興趣

TALENTS À SUIVRE

Specials creative prizes, created by the City of Paris with three category : Fashion, Design and Applied Arts. These prizes distinguish three emerging designers and three experienced designers.

2020年2月7日 | GALLERY

PRADA X ADIDAS
AT JOYCE NOW

2020年9月8日 | 時裝

ULTRA VIOLETTE讓肌膚嚴陣以待,擊退紫外線損傷

守護肌膚,免受提早衰老的侵襲,沒有任何情況比這三個字母更為重要:SPF。太陽釋出的紫外線是外在環境對肌膚構成損害的最大誘因,若果我們沒有使用任何SPF產品,塗搽所有昂貴的醫學美容產品只是徒勞無功。JOYCE Beauty為你呈獻來自澳洲的Ultra Violette,讓肌膚穿上最好的防曬保護衣。品牌提供一系列擁有UVA和UVB防曬保護的保濕和適合妝前使用的護膚必需品。

2020年8月18日 | 美容

更多文章 GALLERY