ENG

CHARLES JAMES: THE COUTURE SECRETS OF SHAPE

“Charles James: The Couture Secrtes Of Shape ”  book launch

Book preface BY RICK OWENS

WHEN I STARTED MY LABEL IN THE MID-NINETIES, MY ULTIMATE GOAL WAS TO BE CHARLES JAMES. COMPLETE DEVOTION TO CRAFT, SCORN FOR CONVENTIONAL PROSAIC COMFORTS, BUT ATTENTION AND RESPECT RESERVED EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE MEGA-REFINED AND EXTRAVAGANT — THAT’S WHERE I WANTED TO GO … I WAS A BIT FULL OF MYSELF …

HIS LIFE, WHICH I SAW THROUGH MY GRUNGY HOLLYWOOD FILTER, ENCOMPASSED A VERY BREATHY SPECTRUM OF HIGH QUEENS … WAUGH, BEATON, WARHOL, DIETRICH, DALÍ … A WORLD OF GLAMOUR THAT CONTRASTED ROMANTICALLY WITH HIS SELF-IMPOSED DEPRIVATIONS THAT SNEERED AT CONVENTIONAL STATUS, KNOWING THAT THE ULTIMATE STATUS WAS A SUPERNATURAL EXISTENCE AS AN ARTIST SPELLED WITH A CAPITAL A.

A FRIEND FROM MY L. A. YEARS, JUAN FERNANDEZ, USED TO DO FITTINGS FOR JAMES IN NY IN THE SEVENTIES, SPENDING HIS TEENAGE NIGHTS BEING PINNED INTO ELABORATE BALL GOWNS WHILE ANTONIO LOPEZ SKETCHED THE WHOLE PROCEDURE … JUAN RAPTUROUSLY DESCRIBED TO ME THE MAGIC OF LISTENING TO JAMES CONTINUOUSLY TALK ABOUT THE COLOR PINK FOR TWO HOURS, NEVER REPEATING THE SAME WORD …

I’VE PERSONALLY ALWAYS TRIED TO PROMOTE CLOTHES THAT ARE FLUID, RESPECTFUL OF THE BODY AND GENTLE … JAMES’ CLOTHES WERE THE OPPOSITE … THEY WERE ENGINEERED, SCAFFOLDED, CONSTRICTING, AND HARD … BUT IN HIS CASE, THE OPERATIC FORMALITY AND STRICT EXQUISITENESS MADE COMFORT IRRELEVANT. FOR MY F/W 11 COLLECTION CALLED LIMO, I BLATANTLY, GLEEFULLY, RIPPED OFF HIS ICONIC EIDERDOWN JACKET. I DON’T REALLY REMEMBER ANYONE CALLING ME OUT ON IT, BUT I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST OBVIOUS.

FASHION IS ABOUT COMMUNICATION. AND, YES, EIGHTY PERCENT OF THE TIME, THE MESSAGE IS ABOUT PROJECTING MATERIAL OR INTELLECTUAL STATUS, BUT FASHION CAN ALSO BE A MORAL CONTRIBUTION … MURMURING A SET OF VALUES AND STANDARDS THAT MAKE US CONSIDER BEHAVING IN A MORE GRACEFUL AND NOBLE WAY.

JAMES’ CLOTHES WERE ABOUT ORDER, RIGOR, AND DISCIPLINE … IDEAS THAT SUGGESTED AN ELEVATED CODE I ADMIRED AND WANTED TO ALIGN MYSELF WITH. THESE CLOTHES COULD PERVERSELY SPEAK ABOUT RESTRAINT AND THE JOY OF SUMPTUOUSNESS AT THE SAME TIME.

BEAUTY IS ONE OF THOSE UNFAIR EPHEMERAL VARIABLES THAT CAN COME OUT OF NOWHERE AND SOMETIMES BE CRUEL … THAT’S PART OF THE THRILL … BUT CONTRIBUTING A BODY OF WORK THIS COMMITTED AND PURE IS AN EXAMPLE OF HONESTY AND HOPE THAT THE REST OF US CAN HOLD ONTO AND SHARE WITH EACH OTHER AND GENERATIONS OF LOVERS OF BEAUTY TO FOLLOW.

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-060-e1551955661716

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-060-e1551955661716

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-059-e1551955699617

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-059-e1551955699617

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-058-e1551955623231

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-058-e1551955623231

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-057-e1551875510630

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-057-e1551875510630

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-052-e1551955731475

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-052-e1551955731475

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-051-e1551956401937

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-051-e1551956401937

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-019-e1551956473951

Joyce-2019-Charles-James-019-e1551956473951

您可能感兴趣

BENSIMON 40TH ANNIVERSARY – FROM WHITE TO COLOR

Serge and Yves Bensimon pay tribute to the product that propelled them 40 years ago into the fashion world.

2019年4月23日 | GALLERY

JOYCE PODCAST

(English) JOYCE Podcast : Live Curiously. Further connecting our worldwide network of like-minded design, fashion & culture fans, we will go head-to-head with the most inspiring talents in the business.​

2019年9月13日 | 时装

绿色成本

爱因斯坦曾说:「我们不能以同样的思维,解决过去人类制造的问题。」这句话正是启发Tata Harper 发起绿色美容运动的原动力,可是这逆向思维不限于美容护肤,更是一种生活哲学。

2019年9月11日 | 美容

更多文章 GALLERY