JOYCE.com spoke with Marios Schwab and musical collaborator Rafael Wallon-Brownstone about their “Hitchcockian” cinematic fashion experience for Autumn/Winter 2012.
Marios Schwab’s show is one of the hottest tickets during London Fashion Week and his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection did not disappoint. Models walked down the catwalk solemnly in cloches, wide-brimmed floppy hats or with messy fringes to create a mysterious look. Dresses were tailored and elegant in diaphanous chiffon or lace, with structured bodices, often embroidered with graphic sparkly patterns. Schwab describes the show as “very cinematographic, almost like a Hitchcock movie.”
“Music is a big part of what gets me inspired without being too literal. It’s the emotion that comes with it,” says the designer, who was on a plane to LA when he heard a piece of music by Austrian composer Gustav Mahler that inspired him.
“The Autumn/Winter 2012 show is very cinematographic, almost like a Hitchcock movie.”
Fashion designers work for six months on one collection but only have less than 10 minutes to prove their worth on the catwalks. As such musical collaborator plays an important role in realising the designers’ hard work. For Schwab, musical collaborator Raphael Wallon-Brownstone, has been integral to telling his story.
“It’s my second collaboration with Marios and working with Wladimir Schall. I think about the image of the brand and the music of the brand. I like to tell a story with Marios. He needs the soundtrack to be really cinematic. It’s never pop music, but always orchestral or a movie soundtrack,” says Wallon-Brownstone.
The collection’s neutral palette of cream, camel and black is injected with narcotic and mint green to create an illusion of film noir. Mathematical graphic patterns are created in hologram sequins on mesh for a look that combines modernity with old world glamour. The models are transformed into modern femme fatales who appear to have walked out from the silver screen onto the catwalk.
“The special thing about movies is that when you listen to a very successful soundtrack, you suddenly find yourself identifying with the character. It’s the same feeling when I design my collection. There is so much about the attitude and character that the clothes portray,” says Schwab.
In this age when anyone can sit at home and watch a fashion show on the internet, it is crucial to create a show experience that touches the live audience. It’s like the difference between listening to music at home versus a concert.
“Marios told me that he saw four people crying in the crowd during the fashion show because of the music. I have no idea if there’s really a connection between the music and the girls crying, but if it is then it’s pretty impressive,” says Wallon-Brownstone.
Photos by Filep Motwary
Interview by Lucienne Leung