The care free spirit of summer is here to stay. After staying cool in bouncy pleats and loose fit knits, the idea of functionality without compromising style is on every designer’s agenda. Similarly, winter is no longer austere and dark. Puffy coats, cosy knits and demure mid-calf skirts, have been given a refreshing contemporary update. Artistic floral and graphic geometric pattern in vibrant colours will brighten any gloomy day. Warmth, comfort and style, what more do we need for this winter?
Silhouettes are loosening up this autumn, with fluid shapes that move against the body like a second skin. While many designers opted for sheer fabrics such as chiffon or organza, Haider Ackermann crafts his floor sweeping tailored coats in lightweight wool for an austere and elegant look. J.W. Anderson’s calf-length skirts are sculpted yet fluid, while Alber Elbaz at Lanvin adds energy to his tweed separates by adding ruffles and tiers.
Autumn is all about covering up, but designers added additional protection from the elements with rounded silhouettes that resemble modern-day armour. Thick fabrics envelope the body at Yohji Yamamoto, while padding appears on puffer jackets at Junya Watanabe and Sacai. At Gareth Pugh dresses resemble lambswool but are actually made from scrunched up plastic. Rick Owens sent out elongated jackets covering the entire torso like a shield.
The art world has always been an inspiration for fashion designers and this season is all about the vibrant colours and prints associated with Pop Art. Dries Van Noten covers his knits and coats in psychedelic geometric prints. Peter Pilotto’s dresses take collaging to a new level with a cool mix of colour blocking and varying textures. At Alexander Wang zig zags make a statement in yellow and black.
Written by Lucienne Leung-DaviesPhotography by Filep Motwary