The autumn/winter 2013 preview was held successfully at the Maritime Museum of Hong Kong. Both media and guests enjoyed a fashion show which showcased the latest trends – and provided a forum which allowed them to choose their favourite looks to prepare for the next season.
If you missed the biannual event, do not despair, as we have prepared a video which encapsulates the highlights of the day plus the definitive guide of the coming season for you.
For the women’s wear silhouette, designers made a nod to masculine tailoring. Jackets are structured and fitted. Haider Ackermann incorporated shiny silk in the material to soften the sharp lines; Stella McCartney used an uneven hem to add a nonchalant twist; Emmanuel Ungaro mixed polka dots and animal prints to inject femininity. Outerwear is also boxy and oversized. Round shoulders and knee-length hem are teamed with luxurious fur as seen in Giambattista Valli and Alexander Wang, to enhance the cosy feeling.
The evergreen winter elements such as tartans and monochrome are also prevalent this season. Fausto Puglisi teamed classic red and black tartan with leather jackets in reference to punk, whilst Givenchy and Junya Watanabe chose to clash tartan with contrasting prints such as floral and polka dots to achieve a feminine elegance. Céline simply paired a tartan turtle neck with a different colour tartan pencil skirt, to create a modern and chic office attire. As for monochrome, designers used different materials and shapes to update this classic combination. Chloé’s cropped white jacket adds toughness to a layered black tutu; Lanvin’s cream “mille-fueille” chiffon top is just perfect with black leather gloves and satin skirt and the styling of the Balmain asymmetric white top, poufy black skirt and tight trousers is the 2013 take on the dramatic 80s prom dress.
There is a big surprise this season; pastel colours are no longer just a spring summer default option. Confectionary shades cropped up and made their way to thick woolly materials. Carven’s rosy belted jacket with matching shirt and mini skirt is girly and sweet, whereas Victoria Beckham’s lemon sorbet sleeveless long coat- dress with white lapels makes a statement and brightens our mood in the autumn chill.
For menswear, the designers favour a longer silhouette for the modern gentlemen. We love the Alexander McQueen “bathrobe” cosy belted coat as well as Thom Browne’s structured wide shouldered overcoat. Saint Laurent Paris and Yohji Yamamoto both took the “throw everything together” approach - layering long knitwear like cardigan, scarf and jumper. Other designers decided to introduce bold patterns into the dark wintry palette: Rick Owens opted for a vibrant distorted stripy pattern, Dries Van Noten combined jacquard and graphics, velvet and paisley - and the results are sumptuously luxurious. Even the once old-school pin-stripe suit makes a comeback at Alexander McQueen and Jil Sander.
Text by Lucienne Leung-Davies
Illustration by Antonio Carlos Soares