According to Rick Owens this season, there is no fine line between day and evening wear. Languid and drapey long dresses with billowing volume can be light and breezy, as well as solemn and grand.
For his Spring Summer 11 collection, he revisits his favourite muted colour palette of cocoa, pewter, dusty pearl, white and black. Floor-sweeping skirts in cotton and silk-blend canvas are gathered at the front to create volume and movement. These are teamed with Samurai-like sleeveless jackets with a sculptural stand up collar, asymmetric neckline or frock tail. The result is a juxtaposition of aerodynamics and soft fluidity.
His signature jersey tops swirl and drape around the body, while skirts are folded origami-style into austere silhouettes. Contrasting textures and tone-on-tone effects combine with tailoring to create harmonious layers.
Apart from jersey, leather is Owens’ strong suit. Shiny black leather jackets with zip details inject toughness into the collection but are softened with mellow sage and jade green. To complete the look, wedge sandals are layered with silk ruffles and the hair is scraped back into a chignon and decorated with a bone comb. An old world warrior is thus transformed into a modern urban goddess.