Allesandro Dell’Acqua is renowned for his elegant yet sensual play on silhouettes and fabrics: think bedroom - chiffon lingerie then juxtapose this against the context of formal evening attire of tailored elegant dresses. So when he took the helm of Rochas, the epitome of the classic Parisian traditional maison, JOYCE was intrigued to see how the 52-year-old designer who hails from Naples, was going to incorporate his alluring twists into the romantically demure DNA of Rochas.
1. What was Rochas to you before you joined?
Rochas’ spirit and DNA stand for pure luxury, Savoir-Faire, feminine silhouettes, attention to detail while using the highest quality of fabrics under true dress craftsman. I believe the name "ROCHAS" is very evocative and rich in history, but at the same time ageless. It is a unique brand, as it is one of the oldest Luxury Maisons of France.
2.What is your vision for ROCHAS?
There is a very large heritage and always the double idea of femininity and freshness, which I am updating today with modernity. I also cherish the importance of unexpected colors, and the richness and innovation of fabrics and prints. I am taking the brand’s heritage with modern creative perspectives.
3. How do you define femininity?
Femininity is all about attitude. Rochas women are heroines from “Film Noir”: eccentric, brave, but sensitive at the same time endowed with perfect beauty and ambiguous charm.
4. Please tell us about the choices of fabrics in the collection.
Rochas allows me to work with the best couture fabrics. In the collection I was able to use rich materials such as Bucol silk, embroidered Chantilly lace and shearling, and then have the ability to mix them in unexpected ways in order to create new matches.
5. Do you always refer to the maison's archive? How do you strike the balance between respecting the maison's codes and injecting your own flair?
Every detail from the archive can be a starting point. For instance, for the FW 2015-2016 collection, I’ve reasserted the house’s classic codes with the 1934 collection dedicated to birds. A picture of a dress from Marcel Rochas inspired me to create delicate prints and embroidered patterns for the winter collection.
6. How do you see "Parisian Chic" in the past and the present?
Parisian chic has always been defined by radical changes in the silhouette, done by designers which had the guts to propose a completely new vision. It's always been about bravery, today as in the past. For Parisian women "chic" has nothing to do with conformism, it's about experimenting new ways of being beautiful and alluring.