Ever since 2009, when Beyonce appeared at the MTV EMA Awards in one of his statement black dresses, young Georgian designer David Koma was immediately earmarked as one to watch. The eye-catching dress was subsequently seen on several other celebrities and, with its bold architectural silhouette and flowing metallic embellishment, seemed at once to typify Koma’s signature style – tough materials and graphic patterns contrasted with a soft, feminine fluidity.
For his latest project, the designer has created an online capsule collection for JOYCE Boutique. “I love JOYCE, as they have always believed in us before other companies did. The whole concept behind the project was fantastic, so instantly I was like ‘Yes, of course!’”
Explaining his idea for the capsule collection, Koma’s enthusiasm and unique vision are evident. “I decided that it would be amazing if I developed the collection that I did in 2010 based on Italian futurism and artists such as Umberto Boccioni.”
He gestures towards a picture of Boccioni’s famous 1913 bronze sculpture “Unique Forms of Continuity in Space” depicting an abstract, aerodynamic figure in mid-flight. “It represents a constant movement, that never stops,” he explains, and then points to a picture of a jacket he has designed for JOYCE with a flowing metallic embroidery which travels up along one sleeve, around the neckline and down the other. “Like the seams in this jacket – do you see how it flows around – never stopping?”
The designer was required to base the collection for JOYCE around his signature style, but there are some differences with this collection when compared to his previous designs. “This time we created prints which gave a lighter, more feminine touch to the collection, which I’ve combined with all kinds of classic, bold ‘David Koma’ shapes that I like. Two pieces in the collection have zip details, but this time the embellishments are detachable and multi-functional, which is quite new for us.”
Asked why he likes to work with metal in particular, Koma doesn’t hesitate in answering. “l love the idea of contrast, of masculine and feminine. For me the idea of a feminine body made of metal is quite beautiful, it’s that sense of something lasting forever. It’s glamorous, but in a different way to stones or sequins. For me, metal is a new way of embellishing things – my own way.”