Alexander McQueen SS18 WW Show Collection Notes

14 Feb 2018

Inspiration...

The quintessential English gardens of Great Dixter: uncontrived floral planting, meandering borders and tangles of vibrant, exuberantly coloured blooms. Drenched in rain, warmed by sunlight, her wardrobe consists of long-cherished, worn-and-torn couture inspired pieces and bespoke men’s tailoring, deconstructed and reconstructed: reclaimed. She may be dressed in weather-beaten waxed jackets, vintage blue denim, oversized sweaters embellished with keepsakes from her grandmother’s jewellery box or in the fragile remnants of gowns that resonate with celebratory times past. While her history informs her present, she is mindful of the nature that surrounds her, secure in its healing powers and its potential for the future.

The Set...

Geometric structures painted in contrasting colours are placed on blocks of cellular clay bricks. They are topped with transparent tulle canopies that become increasingly overgrown with intricately embroidered flowers.

The Collection...

Deconstructed gabardine trench coats are panelled with rosebud silk jacquards. Softly corseted, ruffled knit dresses with fifties lingerie detailing are cut away at the waistline; some have looping crinoline skirts. A bone leather coat is pieced and patched with quilted floral and striped mattress silks. Bonded plongé leather peplum jackets are worn off the shoulder and over raw-edged leather skirts embellished with gold and silver hardware. Wool silk cavalry twill riding jackets and coats with a masculine shoulder are panelled with checks and layered over raw-edged leather trousers. Oversized, slashed mouliné knit sweaters are embroidered with heirloom brooches.

Checked silk cotton kilt dresses are deconstructed and buttoned to the throat. Pleated glass organza gingham and floral print dresses are worn over a soft cotton tulle corset. A waxed leather coat and jacket are pieced together with a chevron check. Tailored suits in varying scales of houndstooth have a broad shoulder, exaggerated, rounded hip and cropped, kickback trouser. Silver leather is embroidered with white garden flowers. Engineered fil coupé dégradé tweed dresses are worn with a shredded peony tweed coat embroidered with pearls. A leather harnessed tapestry dress is embroidered with garden roses. An exploded deconstructed vintage denim jacket is worn with a pieced skirt hemmed with antique floral handkerchief cotton. Transparent glass organza dresses are printed with layers of roses and explode with pleated necklines and full, tiered skirts.

A tuxedo dress coat in black wool silk and a silk faille corset dress have draped ruffle flower skirts. A silk wool tuxedo jacket with exploded rose taffeta sleeves is worn with kickback tuxedo trousers. Deconstructed heirloom dresses are shredded and cut in a mix of floral jacquard, washed organza and silk tulle. Inside-out skeletal taffeta gowns are embroidered with trailing, three-dimensional blooms.

Fabrics...

Wool silk cavalry twill, wool silk houndstooth check, gingham and floral glass organza, trench gabardine, wallpaper and mattress duchess silk jacquards, fil coupé silk tweed, tapestry canvas, vintage washed denim, handkerchief cotton, tuxedo wool silk, silk faille, silk tulle.

Colours...

Tint pink, flowerbed pink, fuchsia, deep red, garden green, military green, twine, vintage blue, apricot, black, ivory, silver, bone.

Bags, Shoes, & Jewellery...

Multi-coloured flowers and pearls are trapped in the transparent heels of high shine buckled boots. The Box Bag is quilted in patent leather with contrast stitching or studded with metallic hardware. Frame bags are quilted and embroidered with birds and flowers. Silver and gold chokers, bracelets, cuffs and earrings are finished with clusters of charms in crystal and pearl.

Hair & Make-up...

Hair is rain-drenched. Make-up is natural.