From dream to reality – Editions De Parfums from Frédéric Malle (PART I)

24 May 2016

Born in 1962 and brought up surrounded by the French fine fragrance tradition where noses are kings, it's no surprise Frédéric Malle, grandson of perfumer Serge Heftler Louiche who founded Christian Dior perfumes, followed in his grandfather's footsteps. After studying Art History and working in advertising, Malle joined Roure Bertrand Dupont in 1988, known then as one of the world's leading and most creative fine fragrance suppliers, and collaborated with the world's most gifted perfumers.

Deciding to work freelance in 1994, Malle became a consultant for many prestigious brands. He dreamt of revealing the real world of perfumers, a world where perfume is a work of art. It was during this time that Malle developed what became in June 2000 the Editions de Parfums. Insisting on the highest quality and collaborating with the world's top noses, he chose the cream of the perfumers, the best creators of French and worldwide perfumery and gave them total freedom. Malle allowed each artist to create the fragrance of their dreams, perfumes that the fragrance business wouldn't have allowed them to make, for many the first time in years giving free expression to their imagination without financial limits or brief marketing. A great opportunity for demanding customers to access innovative, modern and luxurious perfumes, it is to bring back luxurious and inventive perfumery that Frederic Malle decided to create Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle.

In the following section, we will introduce the world’s top noses who create the fragrance of their dreams with the support of Frédéric Malle:

1. The Perfume Composer - Jean-Claude Ellena

The kind of artist Editions de Parfums were created for, Jean-Claude Ellena has been exclusive perfumer to Hermès since 2004. Focusing on simplification that result in more expressive compositions that are not too concentrated to reinforce subtlety, over the years Ellena has reduced the number of raw materials he works with to best serve his streamlined and understated style. 

Creation:

  • ​ ANGELIQUES SOUS LA PLUIE (SPICY WOODY COLOGNE)
    • COLOGNE BIGARADE (BITTER COLOGNE)
    • BIGARADE CONCENTRATE (CONCENTRATED BITTER COLOGNE)
    •  L'EAU D'HIVER (WARM COLOGNE)

2. Feminine Expression - Olivia Giacobetti

So as not to be dominated by masculine expression, Olivia Giacobetti was chosen to add a feminine touch and personality to Editions de Parfums. Spending most of her career in smaller companies, she took advantage of the freedom to develop a sensitive and personal style and concentrating on “Parfumerie de charme”. Now independent with her own firm ISKIA, Giacobetti advocates the simple and essential through creations such as Premier Figuier – L'Artisan Parfumeur (1994) and Collection de parfums bio (2008 & 2010).

Creation:

  • EN PASSANT (TRANSPARENT FLORAL)

3. Perfumer of the 80’s and 90’s - Edouard Flechier

Edouard Flechier is considered a phenomenon in the perfume world through his exceptional capacity to smell details combined with an excellent memory. Through such an incredible technique he became star-perfumer of the house and became one of the most successful perfumers of the 80s and 90s. His work reflects his strong, honest, straightforward and sensitive personality, and his symphonic and generous style, though modern is rooted in the tradition of classical French perfumery. Always mixing chic, sensuality and opulence, his creations include Davidoff (1984), Poison (1985) and Acqua di Gio (1995).

Creation:

  • LYS MÉDITERRANÉE (SPICY WHITE FLORAL)

    • UNE ROSE (ROSE WOODY)