From dream to reality – Editions De Parfums from Frédéric Malle (PART II)

03 Jun 2016

Previously introducing Frédéric Malle and three top noses who composed the fragrance of their dreams and in this section, we will continuously introduce the key perfumers of the Editions de Parfums.

4. Father of modern perfumery - Edmond Roudnitska

At a time when perfumers were anonymous and hidden behind big brands, Edmond Roudniska was the only “nose” known by the public. Known as the father of modern perfumery and a self-defined perfumer composer, he possessed an exceptional knowledge of synthetic and natural raw materials through his work at Roure Dupont Laboratory where his job was to create the base of perfumes. He became perfumer at De Laire and created Femme (1944) for Marcel Rochas. In 1946 he establishes the ART & PARFUM laboratory with his wife and creations that follow include Eau Fraiche (1953), Diorissimo (1956) and Eau Sauvage (1966).

Creation:

  •  LE PARFUM DE THÉRÈSE (FLORAL SPICY WOODY)

5. The Young Talent - Ralf Schwieger

Frédéric Malle also included a young creator amongst the biggest names in perfumery in order to bring a new energy to his team. Through smelling new creations created by promising noses, Malle was seduced by the sketch from Ralf Schwieger which not only had the raw energy of young talent, but already a very solid technique that allowed him to bring forth his original ideas, his joie de vivre and his quest for glamour in his fragrances. Some of his creations include Baby Doll (1999) and Marc Jacobs for men (2002).

Creation:

  • LIPSTICK ROSE (FLORAL FRUITY MUSKY)

6. Family Friend - Pierre Bourdon

Pierre Bourdon and Frédéric Malle go way back to their respective fathers and grandfathers who worked together at Dior and were Edmond Roudnitska's main commissioners. Having trained through Roure Bertrand school and Edmond Roudnitska, Bourdon became one of the most important perfumers of fine perfumery Roure in Argenteuil (Paris). A fierce worker, Pierre Bourdon is also unanimously renowned as one of the most innovative and eclectic formula makers of his generation, having created Cool Water (1988) which is considered as the essential milestone of modern masculine perfumery, and others such as Dolce Vita (1995).

Creation:

  • IRIS POUDRE (FLORAL ALDEHYDIC)
  • FRENCH LOVER (GREEN WOODY AMBER)

7. Star perfumer at IFF (International Flavour and Fragrances) - Dominique Ropion

From the legendary Roure Bertrand laboratory, Dominique Ropion studied at their perfumery school before joining the fine perfumery team at Argenteuil. Considered one of the most promising perfumers of the times, Ropion rapidly gained international recognition thanks to the launch of Ysatis (1984) and Amarige (1991) for Givenchy. He teamed up with Jean Louis Sieuzac in 1989, and as a perfumer at the height of his talents, became one of the star perfumers at IFF (International Flavour and Fragrances). Ropion is considered by many the most “complete” perfumer of his generation mastering both mass and exclusive perfumery and has been awarded a “Médaille de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres”. Some of his compositions include Alien (2005) and L'Homme (2006).

Creation:

  • CARNAL FLOWER (WHITE FLORAL TUBEROSE)

    • COLOGNE INDELEBILE (MUSKY COLOGNE)
    • UNE FLEUR DE CASSIE (FLORAL ORIENTAL)
    • GERANIUM POUR MONSIEUR (FRESH MUSKY)
    • PORTRAIT OF A LADY (ORIENTAL)
    • VÉTIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE (WOODY SPICY FRESH)

8. MAURICE ROUCEL

A self-taught perfumer, Maurice Roucel started as a chemist at Chanel laboratories in 1973. Fascinated by perfumes, he starts learning under legendary Henri Robert. Roucel's style comes from his intelligence, sensitivity, straightforwardness, strong will and sensual appetite. Despite their diversity, Roucel's many creations all come from the same approach: a search for absolute sensuality through surdosages of raw materials. Always questioning his craft, this strong perfumer streamlines his compositions to only keep the essentials. His generous writing is often based on musk notes, white flowers or amber, which is how he expresses his signature opulent sensuality. Creations include Envy (1997) and Hypnose Homme (2007).

Creation:

  • DANS TES BRAS (FLORAL WOODY MUSKY)

    • MUSC RAVAGEUR (AMBER ORIENTAL)